As mentioned above, the Hungarian community split from St. Ladislas in the early 1890s to form the mighty
St. Elizabeth of Hungary Church (9016 Buckeye Road), the first Roman Catholic Hungarian parish in the United States. The cornerstone for the first church on this site was laid in 1893. As the Hungarian population grew, a new church was needed. Construction of the church above began in 1918 and was completed in 1922. The
church remains active, serving as the last remnant of the neighborhood's once large and vibrant Hungarian population.
The church is both a Cleveland Landmark and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places (1976), the latter qualifying both because of its place in the area's history and because of its historically significant architecture.
St. Elizabeth Hall sits next to the church. It was built in 1916 and has served as the social hall for many important events, such as the Hungarian Wheat & Grape harvest festivals which commenced on Labor Day. The hall also served as a temporary service area during the construction of the current church.
According to historical maps, this home at 2870 E. 91st Street was built sometime between 1874-1881, making it one of the oldest homes still standing in Lower Buckeye. Sadly, the house has been condemned and will likely soon be demolished. It is located directly across the street from the former City Barrel & Drum factory (recently demolished), exemplifying how tightly woven housing and industry was in these neighborhoods back in the day.
Meanwhile, this home at 2701 E. 91st Street was built in the 1890s and is in fine condition despite being one of the last standing homes on the entire block. It's also been owned by the same family for at least the last 40 years.
Interesting looking house at 2769 E. 90th Street. Built in 1925 and owned by the same family for at least the last 50 years.
The former Slovak National Home (8802 Buckeye Road), built in 1906. It later became the publishing headquarters of the
Amerikai Magyar Gaza (American Hungarian Farmer) as well as the Kessler Company. It's been home to Blessed Hope Missionary Baptist Church since 1987. To the left of the parking lot once stood the
Sun Theater, built in 1915 by
Nicola Petti and in operation until 1954. Check out this
photo of the line of folks waiting to get in. Petti built 8 other theaters in Cleveland, including the the LaSalle (Collinwood), Variety (Lorain Ave), and Moreland (Buckeye).

Here at the corner of Lisbon & Evans Roads, the structure in the back right is all that remains of the former sites of the
Glidden's Varnish Company,
Peerless Motor Car Company, and the
Cleveland (Mechanical) Rubber Company. Glidden's was founded in 1875 and would become one of the largest paint producers in America.
Here's a photo of the old plant; they would build a new one at Madison Ave & Berea Road in the early 1900s). Glidden's f
amously employed the chemist Percy Julian in the 1930s, who was one of the first African-Americans to receive a Ph.D. in chemistry. The company also built a $1 million soybean processing plant in the 1930s, and by 1939 it was one of the largest soybean processors in North America and also ranked as one of the largest margarine manufacturers in the world. Peerless was founded in 1889 and moved to this site in 1895 to begin producing bicycles, but built a new plant on Quincy Ave after it decided to enter the automobile market. Cleveland Rubber was founded in 1875 and, after numerous acquisitions, became Uniroyal (part of Michelin).
Here's a photo of the old Mechanical Rubber Company building in 2013. It was demolished shortly after the construction of the Opportunity Corridor.

Miceli's Dairy (2721 E. 90th Street) is a fine Italian cheese manufacturer that's been in business in Cleveland since 1923. At just 15 years old, John Miceli began selling traditional Italian cheeses like Ricotta and Mozzarella from his Model-T pickup truck on the streets of Cleveland. He grew the business into what it would become today and worked until the day he died at age 91. The business is now in its third generation of family ownership. Just this year, the company
broke ground on a 3-phase, $128 million expansion of their facility, which is expected to create an additional 250 jobs. A great Cleveland business who is all-in on Cleveland and the Buckeye neighborhood. Fun Fact: Miceli's is known for many cheese types. However, the company reports that it produces 20% of all ricotta cheese production in the United States!

Site of Miceli's future plant expansion, located just south of the existing plant on E. 90th. 100 years ago, the site was home to
Eberhard Manufacturing Company, one of the nation's largest manufacturers of malleable iron wagon and carriage hardware (one of the only ones to survive the horse & buggy days). The plant was a major employer of Hungarian immigrants for decades. At its peak, it occupied 12 acres and employed 1,000. The company moved to Strongsville in 1973.
Ghost steps to a home long gone on Alpine Ave.
This garden at the corner of Holton Ave & Amber Ave is owned and operated by
Jamel Rahkeera. It is part of
Village Family Farms which he began in the Hough neighborhood. Rahkeera and his wife are also beekeepers (they run one of Cleveland's first bee apiaries) and were curious about ways to maximize the crop beyond honey. So, Jamel
reached out to Case Western Reserve University who helped him develop his beeswax into a lip balm product line, which has since expanded into other products such as soaps.
Across the street is Amber-Holton Playfield, a simple City park that connects to the RTA Woodhill Station (next photo). It was expanded in 2020 with the acquisition of a nearby county land bank parcel.
The
RTA Buckeye-Woodhill Rapid Station (9528 Buckeye Road) originally opened on April 11, 1920, connecting the neighborhood to Shaker Heights and downtown. It serves the Blue and Green lines. The station received major upgrades in 1981 and again in 2013.
Immediately next to the building above is
Woodhill Station East (Phase 3), a $34.6 million, 69-unit building that will feature an onsite early childhood education center. It's set to open later this year.

This statue sits in parking lot of a gas station at the corner of Buckeye & E. 89th. It depicts a half-human/half-machine worker with part of his body torn away (note the exposed ribcage). The piece was completed by the late
Rabbi Sidney Rackoff. Rackoff was a WWII veteran medic who participated in the Battle of the Bulge, earning four battle star metals and a Purple Heart. After the war, he worked in a steel mill (and fought hard for workers rights); ran a used furniture and machinery store; and served as a Rabbi to numerous congregations. In his 60s and with encouragement from his wife, he went on to study art as a way to cope with the emotional burden of what he saw in both WWII and the mills. He produced many forms of art with metal sculpture being his most well known. His themes depict war, work, and human suffering. According to this
article, a neighbor states that Rackoff moved the sculpture above to this location to honor a slain local. Rackoff died in 2014 at the age of 95.
Here's a look at some of his other pieces.

The former Most Holy Greek Catholic Church (2560 E. 93rd Street) was formed in 1916 by Fr. Aurelius Hatiegan (although the church above was built in 1927 according to county records). Despite being located in a densely populated Hungarian & Slovak community, it was actually a church for the Romanian community. It's been home to Mt. Tabor Missionary Baptist Church since 1976.
According to county records, this building at 2862 E. 93rd was built in 1920 but maps show some type of evangelical church on this site dating back to at least 1912. It's been home to United Glorious Church of God for at least the last 50 years.
Underpass shot of the old
Cleveland Short Line railroad on Yeakel Ave. The line was a freight bypass around the congested lines running through downtown. It connected the yards in Bellaire-Puritas (known as "Rockport") to the yards in Collinwood. Construction began in 1906 with the first section opening in 1910. Today it's operated by CSX.
Speaking of Yaekel Ave, it's named after Reuben Yeakel who came to Cleveland in 1860 and owned a number of tracks of land in the area around E. 93rd, north of Buckeye Road. Yaekel was a religious historian who wrote extensively about the
Evangelical Association between the period of 1750-1850.

One of the most notable landmarks in Buckeye-Woodhill is the
East End Neighborhood House, located at 2749 Woodhill Road. The first structure (above) on what is now a campus is the home of famed 19th century music composer
J.T. Wamelink and his wife Catherine, who built the home in 1894. Wamelink was a prominent musician and composer who came to Cleveland in 1835 with his family from the Netherlands. At age 14, he became the first organist of St. Mary of the Flats Catholic Church, the mother church to all Catholic churches in Cleveland. He later opened a piano shop on Superior Ave while continuing as a composer, music, and voice teacher. For nearly 30 years he was the organist at St. John's Cathedral. He also was the founder of the Haydn Society, the first musical society in Cleveland. Wamelink composed many pieces of music, a number of which are in the collections of the Library of Congress. After Catherine passed away in 1915, the house transitioned to the East End Neighborhood House, a dynamic social service center for young and old alike. East End was founded and run by Hedwig Kosbab, a Hungarian immigrant's daughter and social worker who began teaching English to children on the porch of her mother’s home in 1907. For well over a century, the institution she founded has served the Buckeye community. Fun Fact: Current Cleveland City Council president Blaine Griffin once worked at East End, organizing around issues related to public health, including infant mortality.

J.T. Wamelink (mentioned above) began to acquire tracks of land in the neighborhood toward the later part of the 1800s. A street is named after him where he once held land (below) but he also influenced the naming of adjacent Steinway Ave (his favorite piano brand). Both streets have existed since at least 1874.
This home (with fronted commercial space) located at the corner of Steinway & Wamelink Ave was built around 1900 and has seen better days over the past 125 years.
The Woodland Recreation Center (9206 Woodland Ave) was built in 1915 and designed by architect William S. Lougee as a public bath house (the fourth in the city) at a time when population density exceeded available bathing facilities. A gymnasium and adjacent playground was also included on the site. Today, it also has an outdoor swimming pool. However, the facility's fate is uncertain as the City's recent
park master plan calls for its repurposing or closure.

Per the great
John Skrtic: "
Farm House Foods, located at 9000 Woodland Avenue in Cleveland and with another location in Maple Heights, has been a staple since 1974. Started by Len and Estelle Simon and now run by their son Dan Simon, the business continues as a true family tradition. Both locations have long been known for fresh seafood, meats, and poultry, and today they’re also home to some of the city’s best fried fish dinners. Catfish remains the biggest seller, with shrimp, perch, and hearty fish sandwiches also longtime favorites."
This building at 2732 Woodhill Road was built in 1964 and has been home to Liverpool Missionary Baptist Church for the past 40 years.
St. John's Byzantine Catholic Church (9510 Buckeye Road) was the first Byzantine (or Greek) Catholic parish established in Cleveland and the first Hungarian Byzantine Catholic Church established in the U.S. A frame church and parish house was initially built at 8021 Rawlings St. around 1895 (still standing but barely). In 1908, the church moved to this location on Buckeye Road. Beginning in 1952, the church above was built on the site of the original church along with a home for nuns, and the first Hungarian Greek Catholic elementary school in the U.S. The school closed in 1972 and the church closed in 1982, moving to Solon. Today it is home to Calvary Apostolic Assembly.
This section of tiny Sherwood Ave has been around since at least the early 1870s like several of the residential streets around it. However, it's one of the few to retain brick pavers. (St. Elisabeth's is in the background, for orientation).
Olive Grove Missionary Baptist Church (2928 Woodhill Ave) was built in 2004. It sits right on the ridge line of Lower Buckeye and Upper Buckeye. Immediately to the left of the church was a bowling alley. Behind that was Woodhill Court, a tiny alleyway. Both have long since vanished.

This is one of the most random and interesting discoveries of this project. A local architect and an artist have partnered with the Cuyahoga Land Bank and the City of Cleveland Transformative Art Fund to use decomposed debris from a demolished century home at
9413 Sophia Ave to create mushrooms that can be converted into things such as bricks, dishware and even sculpture art (the latter will be displayed on site this Fall). This is called 'mycotecture'. The architect is even working with NASA to develop the concept further with the goal to potentially grow building materials in space using spores. Here's a good Ideastream
story about the project. I happened to be able to catch an open house to learn more about all of this. It was accompanied by a presentation by activist Robin Brown (speaking to the group above) of
Collective Citizens Organized Against Lead (C.C.O.A.L.) who educated folks about lead poisoning and how treatments like the mushroom work can remediate lead-laced soil. Folks were also treated to mushroom tea and other types of teas made from plants on site.

The former Ferko Theater (2889 Woodhill Road), built in 1914. The theater seated 400 and a piano player supplied the music.
Here's a photo from 1915. It later was converted to the Woodhill Brass Company. It's currently in possession of the State of Ohio due to $73K in back taxes. The roof has clearly also collapsed. Another piece of Woodhill Road history soon to be lost to the landfill.
The former Italian Sons & Daughters of America building at 11116 Mt. Carmel Ave which was built in 1921. In the 1960s, it became home to the Mt. Carmel Club. Today, it's owned by a construction company but its use is not clear.

Artha Woods Park is located on the corner of Woodstock Ave & MLK Drive. It features a basketball court, playground, baseball field. The park recently received an update to include a new splash pad, playground and walking path. An athletic field stood on this site as far back as 1926.
"Lady" Artha Woods was served as a City Councilmember from 1977-1990. She also managed boxers, owned a millinery shop, and, in 1984, founded the Artha-Jon Junior Models' Guild, one of the first modeling and charm schools for Black women in the country. She was later inducted into the Models Hall of Fame. She was "named an honorary Italian at Holy Rosary Church" in Cleveland and was blessed by Pope Paul VI in Rome for her work with Catholic leaders. Woods retired from Bell Ohio in 1981, starting as the first Black switchboard operator in company history to all the way to public relations manager at the end of her career. In her youth, she was valedictorian of Cleveland Central High School attended the Western Reserve School of Education. Woods died in Cleveland on May 10, 2010.

The mighty
Baldwin Water Treatment Plant provides 70 million gallons of drinking water to individuals and businesses throughout downtown, University Circle, the east side of Cleveland, and the eastern and southeastern suburbs. It was built in 1925 by architect
Herman Kregelius. Kregelius also designed the
Central Police Station on Payne Avenue and what is now the
Western Reserve Fire Museum. From 1885 to 1925, the plant property was the site of the 80-million-gallon, open air Fairmount Reservoir. Its pump station was built out of solid stone (here's a
photo). The current reservoir is entirely underground and is supplied by water from Lake Erie through a 5-mile water main. At the time of its construction, it was the largest covered reservoir in the world and was designed by landscape architect
Albert Taylor. Taylor created the development plan for Ambler Park between the Baldwin plant to Coventry Road; additions to Lakeview Cemetery; a plan for the completion of the Mall downtown; and the development plan for Forest Hills Park. He would eventually become the landscape architect for the Pentagon. Before the Baldwin plant was built, it was actually the site of two notable homes. One was the home of Jones Dickle, the vice president of legendary
Hudson's department stores which would eventually become Target after buyouts and restructuring in the 21st century. His house was named "Sunbright" (here's a
photo from 1900). The other - and more notable - was that of
Nathan Ambler, a Gold Rush-era dentist and real estate tycoon. His home - called "Rock Rest" (
photo) - sat exactly where the Baldwin plant building is located today. Ambler died in 1888 and is buried in Lakeview Cemetery. In 1894, his wife Martha donated 25 acres to the city for Ambler Park.