Skip to main content

Buckeye-Woodhill

 The Buckeye-Woodhill neighborhood (sometimes still referred to as "Woodland Hills" or "Lower Buckeye") is one half of the historic cultural epicenter of Cleveland's Hungarian community Buckeye-Shaker Square (my next run/post) or "Upper Buckeye" is the other. Together, the area is informally known as Buckeye-Woodland or Greater Buckeye. The area was originally part of the village of Newburgh. By 1880, it was home to one of the largest Hungarian populations in the U.S (10,000). By 1920, that number rose to 43,000 and featured six Hungarian-language newspapers, nearly a dozen churches, over 300 businesses, and 81 organizations. Many Hungarians began leaving the neighborhood for the suburbs after WWII with the exception of a wave of immigration in 1956 due to the Hungarian Revolution. The neighborhood began to experience decline in the 1960s as white flight, redlining and other common issues facing urban neighborhoods of that time set in. Today, the neighborhood is 90% Black or African American. It still struggles with stability but there are a lot of significant assets and efforts that keep the community active and forward looking, as you'll read about.

 This Buckeye Road Welcome Sign (in Hungarian, Slovak and English) welcomes you to the neighborhood not far from the Opportunity Corridor. It was first installed in 1978.

Site of the former St. Ladislas Church on the corner of E. 92nd & Holton Ave. The first church on this site was built in 1889 (photo). It originally served both Hungarian and Slovak populations until a riot between the ethnic groups during a sermon in 1891 led to an eventual split. The Hungarians would leave to form St. Elisabeth's Church two blocks away (more on that below), making St. Ladislas the first Slovak Catholic parish in Cleveland. A new brick church was built in 1906 and the old church was moved to the east end of the lot and made into a school. A 1970s fire destroyed the church and it was demolished. The blue building in the background was actually the rectory house (built in 1918 according to county records). It's the last remaining structure. Here's what the church looked like back in the day (photo).

As mentioned above, the Hungarian community split from St. Ladislas in the early 1890s to form the mighty St. Elizabeth of Hungary Church (9016 Buckeye Road), the first Roman Catholic Hungarian parish in the United States. The cornerstone for the first church on this site was laid in 1893. As the Hungarian population grew, a new church was needed. Construction of the church above began in 1918 and was completed in 1922. The church remains active, serving as the last remnant of the neighborhood's once large and vibrant Hungarian population.

The church is both a Cleveland Landmark and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places (1976), the latter qualifying both because of its place in the area's history and because of its historically significant architecture.

St. Elizabeth Hall sits next to the church. It was built in 1916 and has served as the social hall for many important events, such as the Hungarian Wheat & Grape harvest festivals which commenced on Labor Day. The hall also served as a temporary service area during the construction of the current church.

According to historical maps, this home at 2870 E. 91st Street was built sometime between 1874-1881, making it one of the oldest homes still standing in Lower Buckeye. Sadly, the house has been condemned and will likely soon be demolished. It is located directly across the street from the former City Barrel & Drum factory (recently demolished), exemplifying how tightly woven housing and industry was in these neighborhoods back in the day.

Meanwhile, this home at 2701 E. 91st Street was built in the 1890s and is in fine condition despite being one of the last standing homes on the entire block. It's also been owned by the same family for at least the last 40 years.

Interesting looking house at 2769 E. 90th Street. Built in 1925 and owned by the same family for at least the last 50 years.

The former Slovak National Home (8802 Buckeye Road), built in 1906. It later became the publishing headquarters of the Amerikai Magyar Gaza (American Hungarian Farmer) as well as the Kessler Company. It's been home to Blessed Hope Missionary Baptist Church since 1987. To the left of the parking lot once stood the Sun Theater, built in 1915 by Nicola Petti and in operation until 1954. Check out this photo of the line of folks waiting to get in. Petti built 8 other theaters in Cleveland, including the the LaSalle (Collinwood), Variety (Lorain Ave), and Moreland (Buckeye).

Here at the corner of Lisbon & Evans Roads, the structure in the back right is all that remains of the former sites of the Glidden's Varnish Company, Peerless Motor Car Company, and the Cleveland (Mechanical) Rubber Company. Glidden's was founded in 1875 and would become one of the largest paint producers in America. Here's a photo of the old plant; they would build a new one at Madison Ave & Berea Road in the early 1900s). Glidden's famously employed the chemist Percy Julian in the 1930s, who was one of the first African-Americans to receive a Ph.D. in chemistry. The company also built a $1 million soybean processing plant in the 1930s, and by 1939 it was one of the largest soybean processors in North America and also ranked as one of the largest margarine manufacturers in the world. Peerless was founded in 1889 and moved to this site in 1895 to begin producing bicycles, but built a new plant on Quincy Ave after it decided to enter the automobile market. Cleveland Rubber was founded in 1875 and, after numerous acquisitions, became Uniroyal (part of Michelin). Here's a photo of the old Mechanical Rubber Company building in 2013. It was demolished shortly after the construction of the Opportunity Corridor.

Miceli's Dairy (2721 E. 90th Street) is a fine Italian cheese manufacturer that's been in business in Cleveland since 1923. At just 15 years old, John Miceli began selling traditional Italian cheeses like Ricotta and Mozzarella from his Model-T pickup truck on the streets of Cleveland. He grew the business into what it would become today and worked until the day he died at age 91. The business is now in its third generation of family ownership. Just this year, the company broke ground on a 3-phase, $128 million expansion of their facility, which is expected to create an additional 250 jobs. A great Cleveland business who is all-in on Cleveland and the Buckeye neighborhood. Fun Fact: Miceli's is known for many cheese types. However, the company reports that it produces 20% of all ricotta cheese production in the United States!

Site of Miceli's future plant expansion, located just south of the existing plant on E. 90th. 100 years ago, the site was home to Eberhard Manufacturing Company, one of the nation's largest manufacturers of malleable iron wagon and carriage hardware (one of the only ones to survive the horse & buggy days). The plant was a major employer of Hungarian immigrants for decades. At its peak, it occupied 12 acres and employed 1,000. The company moved to Strongsville in 1973.

Ghost steps to a home long gone on Alpine Ave. 

This garden at the corner of Holton Ave & Amber Ave is owned and operated by Jamel Rahkeera. It is part of Village Family Farms which he began in the Hough neighborhood. Rahkeera and his wife are also beekeepers (they run one of Cleveland's first bee apiaries) and were curious about ways to maximize the crop beyond honey. So, Jamel reached out to Case Western Reserve University who helped him develop his beeswax into a lip balm product line, which has since expanded into other products such as soaps.

Across the street is Amber-Holton Playfield, a simple City park that connects to the RTA Woodhill Station (next photo). It was expanded in 2020 with the acquisition of a nearby county land bank parcel.

The RTA Buckeye-Woodhill Rapid Station (9528 Buckeye Road) originally opened on April 11, 1920, connecting the neighborhood to Shaker Heights and downtown. It serves the Blue and Green lines. The station received major upgrades in 1981 and again in 2013.

Across the street from the RTA station is Woodhill Station West , a $46M, 120-unit mixed income apartment building owned by CHMA. It is the first phase of a six phase redevelopment strategy for Woodhill Homes, a historic 487-unit public housing community built-in 1939 (more on that later). The development opened in 2024 and was made possible due to a $35 million Choice Neighborhood Implementation Grant from the federal government in 2021, the top award in the country at that time. It's also considered one of Cleveland's top transit-oriented development projects. This building above replaced the former Buckeye-Woodland Elementary School (1975-2015). 

Immediately next to the building above is Woodhill Station East (Phase 3), a $34.6 million, 69-unit building that will feature an onsite early childhood education center. It's set to open later this year.

This statue sits in parking lot of a gas station at the corner of Buckeye & E. 89th. It depicts a half-human/half-machine worker with part of his body torn away (note the exposed ribcage). The piece was completed by the late Rabbi Sidney Rackoff. Rackoff was a WWII veteran medic who participated in the Battle of the Bulge, earning four battle star metals and a Purple Heart. After the war, he worked in a steel mill (and fought hard for workers rights); ran a used furniture and machinery store; and served as a Rabbi to numerous congregations. In his 60s and with encouragement from his wife, he went on to study art as a way to cope with the emotional burden of what he saw in both WWII and the mills. He produced many forms of art with metal sculpture being his most well known. His themes depict war, work, and human suffering. According to this article, a neighbor states that Rackoff moved the sculpture above to this location to honor a slain local. Rackoff died in 2014 at the age of 95. Here's a look at some of his other pieces. 

The former Most Holy Greek Catholic Church (2560 E. 93rd Street) was formed in 1916 by Fr. Aurelius Hatiegan (although the church above was built in 1927 according to county records). Despite being located in a densely populated Hungarian & Slovak community, it was actually a church for the Romanian community. It's been home to Mt. Tabor Missionary Baptist Church since 1976.

According to county records, this building at 2862 E. 93rd was built in 1920 but maps show some type of evangelical church on this site dating back to at least 1912. It's been home to United Glorious Church of God for at least the last 50 years.

Underpass shot of the old Cleveland Short Line railroad on Yeakel Ave. The line was a freight bypass around the congested lines running through downtown. It connected the yards in Bellaire-Puritas (known as "Rockport") to the yards in Collinwood. Construction began in 1906 with the first section opening in 1910. Today it's operated by CSX.

Speaking of Yaekel Ave, it's named after Reuben Yeakel who came to Cleveland in 1860 and owned a number of tracks of land in the area around E. 93rd, north of Buckeye Road. Yaekel was a religious historian who wrote extensively about the Evangelical Association between the period of 1750-1850.

One of the most notable landmarks in Buckeye-Woodhill is the East End Neighborhood House, located at 2749 Woodhill Road. The first structure (above) on what is now a campus is the home of famed 19th century music composer J.T. Wamelink and his wife Catherine, who built the home in 1894. Wamelink was a prominent musician and composer who came to Cleveland in 1835 with his family from the Netherlands. At age 14, he became the first organist of St. Mary of the Flats Catholic Church, the mother church to all Catholic churches in Cleveland. He later opened a piano shop on Superior Ave while continuing as a composer, music, and voice teacher. For nearly 30 years he was the organist at St. John's Cathedral. He also was the founder of the Haydn Society, the first musical society in Cleveland. Wamelink composed many pieces of music, a number of which are in the collections of the Library of Congress. After Catherine passed away in 1915, the house transitioned to the East End Neighborhood House, a dynamic social service center for young and old alike. East End was founded and run by Hedwig Kosbab, a Hungarian immigrant's daughter and social worker who began teaching English to children on the porch of her mother’s home in 1907. For well over a century, the institution she founded has served the Buckeye community. Fun Fact: Current Cleveland City Council president Blaine Griffin once worked at East End, organizing around issues related to public health, including infant mortality.

J.T. Wamelink (mentioned above) began to acquire tracks of land in the neighborhood toward the later part of the 1800s. A street is named after him where he once held land (below) but he also influenced the naming of adjacent Steinway Ave (his favorite piano brand). Both streets have existed since at least 1874.

This home (with fronted commercial space) located at the corner of Steinway & Wamelink Ave was built around 1900 and has seen better days over the past 125 years.

The Woodland Recreation Center (9206 Woodland Ave) was built in 1915 and designed by architect William S. Lougee as a public bath house (the fourth in the city) at a time when population density exceeded available bathing facilities. A gymnasium and adjacent playground was also included on the site. Today, it also has an outdoor swimming pool. However, the facility's fate is uncertain as the City's recent park master plan calls for its repurposing or closure.

Per the great John Skrtic: "Farm House Foods, located at 9000 Woodland Avenue in Cleveland and with another location in Maple Heights, has been a staple since 1974. Started by Len and Estelle Simon and now run by their son Dan Simon, the business continues as a true family tradition. Both locations have long been known for fresh seafood, meats, and poultry, and today they’re also home to some of the city’s best fried fish dinners. Catfish remains the biggest seller, with shrimp, perch, and hearty fish sandwiches also longtime favorites."

This building at 2732 Woodhill Road was built in 1964 and has been home to Liverpool Missionary Baptist Church for the past 40 years.

St. John's Byzantine Catholic Church (9510 Buckeye Road) was the first Byzantine (or Greek) Catholic parish established in Cleveland and the first Hungarian Byzantine Catholic Church established in the U.S. A frame church and parish house was initially built at 8021 Rawlings St. around 1895 (still standing but barely). In 1908, the church moved to this location on Buckeye Road. Beginning in 1952, the church above was built on the site of the original church along with a home for nuns, and the first Hungarian Greek Catholic elementary school in the U.S. The school closed in 1972 and the church closed in 1982, moving to Solon. Today it is home to Calvary Apostolic Assembly.

This section of tiny Sherwood Ave has been around since at least the early 1870s like several of the residential streets around it. However, it's one of the few to retain brick pavers. (St. Elisabeth's is in the background, for orientation).

Olive Grove Missionary Baptist Church (2928 Woodhill Ave) was built in 2004. It sits right on the ridge line of Lower Buckeye and Upper Buckeye. Immediately to the left of the church was a bowling alley. Behind that was Woodhill Court, a tiny alleyway. Both have long since vanished.

This is one of the most random and interesting discoveries of this project. A local architect and an artist have partnered with the Cuyahoga Land Bank and the City of Cleveland Transformative Art Fund to use decomposed debris from a demolished century home at 9413 Sophia Ave to create mushrooms that can be converted into things such as bricks, dishware and even sculpture art (the latter will be displayed on site this Fall). This is called 'mycotecture'. The architect is even working with NASA to develop the concept further with the goal to potentially grow building materials in space using spores. Here's a good Ideastream story about the project. I happened to be able to catch an open house to learn more about all of this. It was accompanied by a presentation by activist Robin Brown (speaking to the group above) of Collective Citizens Organized Against Lead (C.C.O.A.L.) who educated folks about lead poisoning and how treatments like the mushroom work can remediate lead-laced soil. Folks were also treated to mushroom tea and other types of teas made from plants on site.

Chris Maurer, Lead Architect at Redhouse Studio Architecture, explains the grow process inside a portable grow lab on Sophia Ave.

The former Ferko Theater (2889 Woodhill Road), built in 1914. The theater seated 400 and a piano player supplied the music. Here's a photo from 1915. It later was converted to the Woodhill Brass Company. It's currently in possession of the State of Ohio due to $73K in back taxes. The roof has clearly also collapsed. Another piece of Woodhill Road history soon to be lost to the landfill.

The Tatra Building on the corner of Sophia & Woodhill Ave. The building served as the one time headquarters of the Tatra Savings & Loan Company which was established in 1909 and served mostly working-class Slovak clientele. It would later become State Savings & Loan, growing to become the 9th largest savings and loan institution in the Cleveland area at one time. It was later absorbed by other banks in the 1980s. The building was sold to Pentecostal Apostolic Church in 1991 but it's unclear if it's still in active use. Fun fact: Tatra is named after the Tatra mountains in Czechoslovakia.

Lamontier Ave is honorarily named for the late Bishop F. E. Perry. Perry was born in Birmingham, AL, in 1930 and moved to Cleveland during his youth. He graduated from the public school system and then a seminary. After returning from service in the Korean War, he became involved in the E. 105th Street Church of God in Christ, which he served for 58 years while also helping form churches in a half dozen other Ohio cities. Perry also served on the Greater Cleveland Roundtable and as the first vice-president of the NAACP and Executive Board. He passed away in 2015 at the age of 84.

The City of Cleveland Ozell A. Dobbins Maintenance Facility (3000 Woodhill Ave) is a 30,000 square foot facility situated on 5.4 acres of land. It streamlines the operations of five separate park maintenance units into one (LEED certified) facility. The facility was dedicated in 2017. Ozell A. Dobbins was a longtime park maintenance commissioner for the City of Cleveland. 100 years ago, the site was home to the Van Dorn Electric Tool Company, which was founded in 1915 and was acquired by Black & Decker in 1928. The Van Dorn tool brand name stayed in market circulation until 1951.

Officer Derek Owens Memorial Park (10404 Parkview Ave). Derek Owens was a near 10-year veteran of the police force when on February 29, 2008, he was shot and killed near this area when he and his partner pursued several fleeing suspects at a known drug house nearby. He was 36 years old. The park was constructed by the Western Reserve Land Conservancy and dedicated in 2023 with contributions from the St. Luke's Foundation, Cleveland Foundation and LAND Studio (designer). The Browns donated the playground equipment and a number of businesses contributed materials, including the 100+-year-old wrought iron fence. It also features reflective walking paths made from the sandstone foundations of demolished neighborhood structures. The three benches representing Derek’s wife and two children were made from the front steps of one of the demolished homes on the property. It is owned by the Cleveland Police Foundation. Here's a nice story about the park by The Land.

This 4-block area of Buckeye Road between E. 99th - E. 104th (think: where Buckeye Road meets Shaker Blvd) was razed by the Northeast Ohio Regional Sewer District in the late 2010s to make way for this major green infrastructure project which is part of their Project Green Lake initiative, a 25-year plan to reduce pollution in Lake Erie. What you see above is a curb cut and sidewalk trench which directs stormwater runoff from Buckeye Road to the greenspace where it can soak into the ground slowly and not overwhelm the street catch basins which can lead to a combined sewer overflow event (i.e. when stormwater pipes are overwhelmed and combine with sewage pipes, all of which is spewed into Lake Erie).

Across the street is another part of the green infrastructure project. The words surrounding planter are in Hungarian and read "culture enriches a trusting community, each soul rebuilding." According to creator and Buckeye resident Dawn Arrington: "These words are a nod, in part to the community’s creators, but also a nod to the community it has become."

Capping off the green infrastructure project is this water tower-themed public art piece by artist Steven Manka. The piece was originally located in a since-removed streetscape project at E. 18th Street & Superior Avenue. You can read more about the all of the above in this Freshwater Cleveland article.

Morning Star Baptist Church (10250 Shaker Boulevard) was organized in 1917 on the near west side and had many homes over the decades. It even survived a bombing in 1935. It moved to this location on Shaker Blvd - a former Buick car dealership - in 2000.

The portion of Buckeye Road west of Woodhill Ave is honorarily named after Dr. Early Preston, the longtime pastor of Morning Star. A excerpt from his obituary reads: "A gentle preacher, booming singer and influential activist, Preston shepherded his 2,300 congregants from a 70-year-old building on Parkview Drive to Glenville High School, then to the former Qua Buick on Shaker Boulevard. He liked to say that where Qua changed tires, the church changed lives." Preston passed away in 2016 at the age of 85.

Shaker Parkway Apartment (2783 E. 108th Street) is one of three sets of apartment complexes that stretch nearly 3 blocks along the south side of Shaker Blvd where it meets at Buckeye Road. All of the buildings were built between 1943-1944. The land was once owned by the Van Sweringen brothers before it was developed.

This mural on the end of a shopping plaza at the corner of Buckeye & Woodhill road was painted in 2025 by artist Mr. Soul. Beginning in the late 1800s, the land behind it was home to an orphanage as well as the home of E.M. Avery. Avery was a was school principal, Cleveland city councilmember, Ohio state senator, author, and historian. He wrote high school textbooks on physical science, as well as several histories of Cleveland, including Cleveland in a Nutshell (1893), and History of Cleveland and Its Environs (1918). He also founded the nearby Children's Fresh Air Camp (now the site of the Cleveland Clinic Children's Hospital for Rehabilitation, more on that later) in 1890, serving as its president for 13 terms beginning in 1895. Before his death, he moved to Florida and became the first mayor of New Port Richey.

This home at 10701 Buckeye Road is one of the oldest homes still standing in all of Cleveland. It is believed to have been built around 1835 by Rodulphous Edwards, one of the original survey party members of the Western Reserve way back in 1798! Here's a great post about it by Cleveland Area History blog.

The former First Hungarian Lutheran Church at 2830 Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. The church was founded in 1906 at a location "down the hill" on Rawlings Ave. It established the first Hungarian orphanage in America in 1913. By 1923, it had grown to support a Lutheran seminary in Budapest. In 1941, the congregation moved "up the hill" and built this Transylvania Gothic-style church and Sunday school. In 1954, it expanded, building Kossuth Hall next door (not pictured). It was home to the "Grape Harvest Festival", and, by 1967, the annual "Hungarian Heritage Days." Membership peaked at 1,000 members in the 50's but then declined in the decades after. The church, hall and rectory were sold in 2018 and have been flipped several times since. It remains boarded and vacant.

I assume this was the former rectory to the church. Several of the windows have been removed and the property has remained in this condition since it was sold in 2018. How this has been allowed to remain in this condition - at such a high profile intersection, across from Cleveland Clinic's Children's Rehabilitation Hospital and Benedictine High School as well as next to a major apartment complex where many families live - is astonishing.

The former First Hungarian (Magyar) Reformed Church at 2856 Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. The congregation was formed in 1891 and the first church was built in 1894 on (now) E. 79th Street. A newer stone church was built on that site 5 years later. In 1925, the church bought 1 acre of land at this site and built the first building - Bethlen Hall (fun fact: Bethlen was Prince of Transylvania in the 1600s) - in 1932. The church building above - which adjoins the Hall - was added in 1949. Then-Ohio Governor Frank Lausche attended the dedication along with 4,000 others. The church was home to many national Hungarian-American conventions and events. The congregation even helped settle 250 refugees during the 1956 Hungarian Revolution. In 1977 the church was designated as an architectural and historic Cleveland landmark. However, in 1993, the church followed many of the Hungarians who abandoned the City and moved out to the exurbs (way out in Walton Hills in this instance). They sold the church in 1998 to New Life Gospel Center who has been there ever since.

Benedictine High School (2900 Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd) was founded in 1927 by Benedictine monks to educate the children of Slovak immigrants. The school's first location was at E. 51st & Superior Ave but it quickly outgrew that space. In 1929, the school moved to St. Andrew Abbeyan active monastery located just behind the school above. The Abbey is also home to the Slovak Institute. The school above was built in 1940 to accommodate further enrollment demand. The school has both an outstanding academic and athletic reputation. Its college preparatory-focused curriculum has resulted in a 96% college placement for graduates. Benedictine is also the only school in Ohio to win a sports state championship in every decade since its inception. Notable alumni include NFL Hall of Fame coach Chuck Noll, film director giants Anthony & Joe Russo, sports agent Rich Paul; R&B/indie pop artist Cautious Clay; and award-winning local journalist Terry Pluto, to name a few of many.

This unique relief adorns the entrance to Benedictine High School.

The former St. Benedict Church (2940 Martin Luther King Jr. Drive) was built in 1953, replacing a church hall and school dating back to 1928. It was considered to be one of the grandest Slovak churches in the nation at the time it was built. Like First Hungarian Reformed above, the parish also closed in 1993. It was sold to Cathedral Church of God in Christ in the following year (still active).

The former St. Benedict's School, located immediately west of the church and built on land owned by Mt. St. Mary's Institute who would eventually be pushed off the block by the Benedictine Order. The building was built in 1923. It was created by the St. Ladislas Parish on Holton to accommodate growth but ended up being becoming its own parish. It served as the parish elementary school for many years but eventually closed shortly before the church closed in 1993. It was sold with the church above to Cathedral COGIC who have leased it to various charter schools. However, it does not appear to be in active use. A separate but associated house to the left of the school was the initial home of the Buckeye Woodland Community Congress (BWCC), a historic community organization that coordinated grass-roots action among more than 200 religious, educational, business, political, neighborhood, and service groups between 1974-1987. Responding to tensions between black and ethnic residents, BWCC promoted community cooperation, equal-opportunity housing, and neighborhood improvement and even testified in both houses of Congress for various matters.

According to historical maps, this home at 2871 Woodhill Road was built in the 1890s and appears to be the first brick home built on Woodhill.

Construction underway for the building of 15 new modular homes on Elwell Ave, a project between Habitat for Humanity, City of Cleveland, and the Cuyahoga County Land Bank. Check out this video of the dedication. Fun fact: Elwell Ave is named after John J. Elwell, a physician, attorney, legal scholar, Ohio state legislator, and decorated Union Army officer during the Civil War
. He owned the tracks of land back when the neighborhood was being built out in the late 1800s and lived on a grand home at the corner of Elwell & Woodhill (which was demolished in 2021).

Ghost sign for Phillip's Monuments & Flowers (10401 Buckeye Road). Owned by Jean Burketh and her family. The business's namesake comes from her maiden name.

Some of the stately homes on Martin Luther King Jr. Drive (formerly East Blvd), the winding crown jewel of the southeast side. It's kind of like the east side equivalent of West Blvd on the west side.

Street memorial for a man shot on Forest Ave about 3 months before this photo.

Bloom Brother Supply (2884 E. 116th Street) is a locally-owned hardware/appliance store founded in 1945 by brothers Dave, Harry and Myer in 1945. They have also a second store in Chesterland, Ohio.

This little building on the corner of E. 116th & Harvey Ave was built around 1930 and has historically always been an automotive service shop of some type. For years, it was the Atlantic Station which on Saturday's "was busier than a barbershop" with folks inside just passing time, according to the book Cleveland's Buckeye Neighborhood. In recent years, it was home to Club L&M, a place in which neighborhood youth could learn (and be paid on the spot) to help repair motorcycles and scooters. I know about this only because of Ideastream's Justin Glanville's excellent blog/podcast Sidewalks of Buckeye which is definitely worth checking out.

Buckeye Square (11529 Buckeye Rd.) is an $11.3 million building that offers 65 affordable, furnished studio apartments for low-income individuals and families. It was built in 2014 and is part of Housing First, a coalition of more than 40 public and private organizations throughout Northeast Ohio, was formed in 2006 to end "long-term and chronic homelessness" in Cuyahoga County. 100 years ago, the site was home to Harvey Rice Elementary School.

The former Rice Branch of the Cleveland Public Library (2820 E. 116th Street). The branch was first established as a school library at Harvey Rice School and then a storefront on Buckeye Road. After becoming a library branch in 1927, this building was constructed on East 116th. Today it is home to the Delta Alpha Lambda Chapter, a Black fraternal organization that provides community leadership opportunities and scholarships for youth.

And here is the new Rice Branch at 11535 Shaker Blvd which was built in 2010. Its red brick pays homage to the original branch design while the curtain of tall glass reflects the images of the neighborhood. Rice houses the only local author collection in the branches of Cleveland Public Library. The mural above is tilted "Freedom of Speech" and was completed by local artist Donald Black Jr. and commissioned by the City Club of Cleveland.

In 2020, the Art x Love project worked with Buckeye-Shaker residents and John Carroll University students to walk every street in the neighborhood and produce the Steps to Equity walkability assessment. These findings informed and inspired the creation of the Village Activity Book in 2021. In 2023, Art x Love was engaged by the Cleveland Public Library to produce a collaborative mural for the Rice Branch Library that would be informed and inspired by people’s activity book submissions. They chose local artist Mac Love who drew a mural outline of the Buckeye neighborhood which was then filled in by residents. More than 200 residents, kids, and community members contributed to the design and creation of the mural, which was named "Land of OpportUNITY”.

Next to the library is Harvey Rice Wraparound School. Built in 2009, it is a PreK-8 school and one of CMSD’s most innovative wraparound school programs. Their preschool program has a 5-star rating (highest). The school partners with the library next door for programs, resources, and services.

The Kase Building (11526 Buckeye Road) was built in 1915 and was once home to the Buckeye office of the Cleveland Trust Company. Today it is home to House of David Worship Center.

The former Cleveland Hungarian Young Men's & Ladies Society building (11213 Buckeye Road). The organization was founded in 1891 by Hungarian immigrant Tihamer Kohanyi who also founded the important Hungarian-American newspaper Szabadsag. It was the oldest Hungarian group in Cleveland and was known for its theatrical performances, having presented the first Hungarian drama presentation in the City. By the time it reached its 60th anniversary in 1951, it had 4,000 members. It later became home to several churches.

Cleveland Clinic's Children's Hospital for Rehabilitation (2801 Martin Luther King Jr. Drive) started as the Children's Fresh Air Camp & Hospital in 1895. It was founded by historian, educator and social welfare advocate Hiram Addison who wanted to provide a healthy environment for ill children and their mothers. In the 1960s, the hospital became affiliated with Case Western University's School of Medicine, and in 1967 was renamed Health Hill Hospital for Children. It remains the only pediatric rehabilitation center and children's specialty hospital of its kind in Ohio.

A presumably very old staircase to the Children's Hospital off of Shaker Blvd.

The current St. Mark's Church (11123 Buckeye Road) began as the headquarters of the Hungarian Workers Federation and eventually become home to the famous Gypsy Cellar restaurant and nightclub. Owner Joseph Rabb would serenade his dinner guests with his gypsy violin. It became a favorite gathering place for such visiting celebrities as Liberace and Zsa Zsa Gabor which led to Rabb's cameo appearance in Joe Pasternak's 1962 film, "Jumbo." Needless to say, this was a very popular Hungarian restaurant during its operation from 1955 to 1971.

The former Ceska Spolkova Sin (Czech Lodge Hall) at 11306 Buckeye Road. Built in 1916, it was designed with one large auditorium that could be transformed into a theater, classroom, gym, lodge hall, or ballroom. It's been home to Love Divine Missionary Baptist Church for at least the last 50 years.

The Shoppes At Buckeye (11301-11501 Buckeye Road) is a strip mall built in 1991. It was formerly known as Buckeye Plaza but received a $1 million upgrade - which included a brand refresh - in 2021. It's anchored by Simon's Supermarket which came to the rescue in 2018 after longtime tenant Giant Eagle left abruptly in 2017.

The mighty Calvary Hill Church of God in Christ (2765 Woodhill Road). The roots of the congregation date back as far as the 1840s in Cleveland, with different homes until around the turn of the 20th century. This main church was dedicated in 1908 and the massive addition in the background was added in 1925. The church was landmarked by the City in 2022. You can read more on its history from that presentation here.

Just behind the church is the Ubuntu Gathering Place, a pocket park developed in 2023 by the Western Reserve Land Conservancy with seed funding provided by the St. Luke's foundation. It's located on the site of a former Saab auto dealership-turned-vacant lot. The park is owned and programmed by the East End Neighborhood House. Ubuntu is a Nguni Bantu term meaning “humanity,” sometimes best translated as “I am because we are.”

One of the wall murals that adorns Ubuntu. 

Cleveland Arts & Social Science Academy (10710 Shaker Blvd) is a public charter school serving 228 students in K-8. It was founded in 2015. The building was built in 1959 as a technical center for the rapidly expanding Tremco company which was, at the time, the nation's largest maker of maintenance materials for industrial, institutional, and commercial buildings.

Climbing steep but sunny Crestwood Ave to start a run.

Some nice landscaping outside a single family home on Grandview Ave. According to county records, the house was built in 1915 and has been owned by the same family for over 50 years.

Pilgrim Rest Baptist Church (10920 Grandview Ave) has been doing its thing in this little corner lot building since 1976.

A new Habitat for Humanity home being constructed in the neighborhood, this one on Hulda Ave where a vacant, blighted home once stood. Revitalization efforts for this five street area of Buckeye-Woodhill (Crestview, Grandview, Hulda, Shale and Rosehill) started over a decade ago through a grassroots advocacy effort organized by residents and local churches. With the help of Habitat, Western Reserve Land Conservancy, City of Cleveland and the County Land Bank, 77 blighted homes were demolished. Habitat then made a commitment to built 40 new homes in the 5-street area.

The Western Reserve Land Conservancy (WRLC) has also been doing a lot of plantings in the area. Many are also paired with the new Habitat housing mentioned above. Here's a few on Shale Ave. I actually helped plant a couple of these a few years ago.

On the corner of Rosehill & Woodhill, the WRLC and the city land bank partnered with Calvary Hill Church for the creation of the Woodhill Community Garden in 2023. The Garden includes wash stations, fenced-in raised garden beds, compost bin, an irrigation system, pathways to improve access to the site, gardening shed, paved driveways, and a pavilion shelter for community gatherings and educational programming. It now connects the church with the East End Neighborhood House, taking the place of where three vacant and abandoned homes once stood.

Also in this area, the neighborhood development corporation (Burton Bell Carr) created this pathway connection park between Crestview and Grandview. For years, residents would cut through these vacant lots. So, after learning about the need for a better connection, the development corporation partnered with WRLC, who designed the park and planted trees. Here's a post with more info and some photos from the dedication in 2023.

Alma Cooper was a neighborhood activist who was born in Tennessee in 1923 and moved to Cleveland in 1952. According to a comment in her obituary: "Alma Cooper was an activist and outstanding individual. Alma was an active member of my board of trustees during the early years. She was also a member of the Buckeye--Woodland Community Congress. The Buckeye-Community Congress was unique and a national neighborhood based model that took on the Cleveland corporate status quo. She loved the Woodland Hills community and was a lifelong resident who fought for the rights and inclusion of its residents in the decision-making process. She was a self-determined individual who was one of a kind and part of an important generation who understood and practiced servant leadership." Cooper, who lived on Hulda Ave, died in 2016 at the age of 93.

Over 100 years ago, this small residential area on tiny E. 99th Place was once the site of YWCA of Cleveland's "The Retreat", a home specifically for unwed mothers and their children. According to this Cleveland Foundation post: "Because parents whose daughters became pregnant out of wedlock were adopting a more tolerant attitude toward the predicament, the need for a residential facility to care for unwed mothers until they gave birth had dramatically declined. The occupancy rate had fallen below 50 percent at the 18-bed Retreat house at 2697 Woodhill Road, prompting The Retreat board’s reluctant decision to close the institution, which had been in operation at various locations since 1868." The property was turned over to the Cleveland Foundation thereafter. Today it's home to Sunrise Village, a public housing townhome development created by CMHA in 1973.

This mosaic mural on the Woodhill Road-side of Sunrise Village was designed by then-local artist Debra Attiya Melton in 1996 through a grant from HUD. This is only a section of it; the entire mural is approximately 230 feet long! Here's a fuller view. Debra Melton sadly passed away in 2003 but her creative vision for this space continues to put a warm glow on a rather barren section of Woodhill.

The former St. Luke's Hospital (11327 Shaker Blvd) was constructed in 1927 with later additions added in the 40s, 60s and 70s. In addition to providing regular medical care, it became a major teaching and research center. When the hospital closed in 1999, it took with it over 800 jobs and the economic soul of Buckeye. The building sat vacant and vandalized for over 10 long years (here's what it looked like in 2009). However, in 2013, then-Neighborhood Progress Inc. undertook a $63 million renovation of the 300,000+ square foot building. Today it is home to The Intergenerational School, the Boys and Girls Club of Cleveland, two early childhood classrooms from the Centers for Families and Children, the offices of Cleveland Neighborhood Progress and the Saint Luke’s Foundation as well as 137 affordable housing units for seniors. Early phases of the project included the development of the adjacent Harvey Rice School and the Rice Branch Library. It all adds up to easily being one of the biggest Cleveland neighborhood success stories of this century.

Sidewalk-turned-fitness track around the St. Luke's campus.

The East 111th Street Model Block project was led by the former Buckeye Area Development Corporation. In the mid-2000s, 22 market rate homes were constructed. All sold and are still occupied. However, the development of the rest of the street was stalled in 2008 due to the Great Recession.

However, progress has continued on adjacent streets. Legacy at St. Luke's (2659-2689 E. 110th Street) is a 27-unit affordable townhome community located directly north of St. Luke's. It was constructed in 2020 by CHN Housing Partners.

The East Side Daily News building (1400 Woodland Ave). According to the Cleveland Public Library: "The East Side Daily News was started by Ulysses Glen in 1980 under the original name of Ascensions News, covering the events and concerns of Cleveland's eastern neighborhoods. The (paper) was intended to fill a gap in quality reporting on these communities and to provide a place to publish positive news, correcting the public narrative about the Cleveland experience." It is still published every Friday. Fun Fact: The building was formerly home to Victor Orlando's Barbershop, as the neighborhood was once mostly Italian. Orlando claimed he once cut Rocky Marciano's hair in the building.

If you've ever traveled east on Woodland Ave heading toward Larchmere, you've surely seen the "Dream" mural at E.110 Street. There's not much information online about the project but it was installed sometime between 2007-2009. It's located on the side of New Vista Enterprises, a full-service landscape design, construction and management company founded, owned, and operated by brothers Michael and Matthew Supler who are horticulture majors from Ohio State. The space is also home to one of their other business, Buckeye Outdoor Supply.

This metal apple tree sculpture located at the confluence of Woodland Ave and Mt. Carmel Ave was completed in the mid-2010s by local artist Hector Vega. City of Cleveland landscape architect Jim McKnight designed the surrounding parklet.

This sign is just about all that currently remains of Woodhill Homes (est. 1940), one of the first public housing projects in the nation. From 1905 to 1929, the site was home to Luna Park, a popular amusement park that also sold alcohol. It's longtime owner was Matthew Bramley who also owned Cleveland Trinidad Paving, the largest paving company in the world at that time. In addition to rides, games, a dance hall, roller rinkmotordome, lagoon, and even a Japanese village, it featured a 20,000 stadium called the "Luna Bowl" which played host to a number of sporting events and was home to two of Cleveland's earliest professional football teams in the 1920s: the Cleveland Bulldogs and the Cleveland Panthers. However, the park could not withstand the double whammy of Prohibition and the Great Depression and closed in 1929. Woodhill Homes emerged a decade later and remained until the early 2020s. Here's an outstanding interactive article and podcast series on Woodhill Homes by Ideastream's Justin Glanville. The site is currently being demolished as part of a six-phase, 638-unit, mixed-income redevelopment project with some buildings being built on-site and others throughout Buckeye (as mentioned earlier in the post and below).

Here's a shot of the recently completed Woodhill Center East building, part of Phase 2 and located directly east of the Woodhill Homes site above at 11309 Woodland Ave. It features 61 apartment units and 16 townhomes. Fun Fact: The site is also where the famous local Orlando Baking Company operated from 1918 to 1980 before moving a little further south to its current location off the Opportunity Corridor.

  The former Mount Carmel Deli (11007 Mount Carmel Road) which closed in 2023. According to this article by The Land, it was due to the lack of ability to secure a license to accept food stamps coupled with declining patrons from the wind down of nearby Woodhill Homes.

This is just one section of a 750-foot-long mural on a brick wall surrounding a bus service facility for the Regional Transit Authority along Woodhill Road. The location was identified as one of 50 locations for public art by Elevate the Easta community process to guide public art investments in Cleveland’s Eastside neighborhoods, including Buckeye, Kinsman, and Woodland Hills. Six artists participated in the design which was supported with approximately $350,000 in grants from Cleveland Metropolitan Housing Authority and the National Endowment of the Arts. Here's a good story about the project by Ideastream.

The neighborhood north of Woodland and east of MLK Blvd is historically an Italian neighborhood that developed in the early-to-mid 20th century. It might be fair to call it the Mt. Carmel neighborhood, named after the church above which was dedicated on October 27, 1950. A fire destroyed the original church 1936. A 10-room school was also built next door to the new church (not pictured but around the back of the building). It was staffed by nuns from The Sister of Notre Dame. (Nearby streets are named Mt. Carmel and Notre Dame). When the parish closed, the Catholic Diocese used the church as its Headstart program headquarters until 2011 when they sold it to another church. Today, it's home to organization that runs a food pantry.

The decaying remains of the Levi Scofield mansion (2438 Mapleside Road). Scofield was one of Cleveland's greatest architects, having followed his family's craft. At 19, he left Cleveland to serve in the Civil War, achieving the rank of Captain by war's end. He returned to pursue architecture, building many notable mansions, schools, monuments and state facilities and became the first architect from Cleveland to be invited into the membership of the American Institute of Architects. His two most well-known pieces that are still will us are the Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument in Public Square and the magnificent Scofield Building at E. 9th & Euclid Ave. Scofield built this 6,000 square foot home for he and his family in 1898 and lived there until his death in 1917. His family remained until 1925 when they then sold it to the Catholic Diocese. It served as a convent for nuns for the next 30 years. In 1955 in was converted into a nursing home which closed in 1990. Today, the building is owned by the Cuyahoga Land Bank. Plans for its restoration were made in 2017 but nothing seems to have come of it. P.S. This is the "back" of the building. Here's a shot of the original front in 1917.

Across from the Scofield Mansion is this unique-looking home which, according to County records, was built in 1900. The trims of the windows and overhead door frame feature ornate cut stone in black. Very distinctive. Almost looks like a tiny church. No other home looks anything like this in the neighborhood.

Nice looking pair of Cleveland doubles in the 1300 block on Notre Dame Ave. Many Italian and Hungarian immigrants lived in such housing in this neighborhood.

The former Italian Sons & Daughters of America building at 11116 Mt. Carmel Ave which was built in 1921. In the 1960s, it became home to the Mt. Carmel Club. Today, it's owned by a construction company but its use is not clear.

Artha Woods Park is located on the corner of Woodstock Ave & MLK Drive. It features a basketball court, playground, baseball field. The park recently received an update to include a new splash pad, playground and walking path. An athletic field stood on this site as far back as 1926. "Lady" Artha Woods was served as a City Councilmember from 1977-1990. She also managed boxers, owned a millinery shop, and, in 1984, founded the Artha-Jon Junior Models' Guild, one of the first modeling and charm schools for Black women in the country. She was later inducted into the Models Hall of Fame. She was "named an honorary Italian at Holy Rosary Church" in Cleveland and was blessed by Pope Paul VI in Rome for her work with Catholic leaders. Woods retired from Bell Ohio in 1981, starting as the first Black switchboard operator in company history to all the way to public relations manager at the end of her career. In her youth, she was valedictorian of Cleveland Central High School attended the Western Reserve School of Education. Woods died in Cleveland on May 10, 2010.

The mighty Baldwin Water Treatment Plant provides 70 million gallons of drinking water to individuals and businesses throughout downtown, University Circle, the east side of Cleveland, and the eastern and southeastern suburbs. It was built in 1925 by architect Herman Kregelius. Kregelius also designed the Central Police Station on Payne Avenue and what is now the Western Reserve Fire Museum. From 1885 to 1925, the plant property was the site of the 80-million-gallon, open air Fairmount Reservoir. Its pump station was built out of solid stone (here's a photo). The current reservoir is entirely underground and is supplied by water from Lake Erie through a 5-mile water main. At the time of its construction, it was the largest covered reservoir in the world and was designed by landscape architect Albert Taylor. Taylor created the development plan for Ambler Park between the Baldwin plant to Coventry Road; additions to Lakeview Cemetery; a plan for the completion of the Mall downtown; and the development plan for Forest Hills Park. He would eventually become the landscape architect for the Pentagon. Before the Baldwin plant was built, it was actually the site of two notable homes. One was the home of Jones Dickle, the vice president of legendary Hudson's department stores which would eventually become Target after buyouts and restructuring in the 21st century. His house was named "Sunbright" (here's a photo from 1900). The other - and more notable - was that of Nathan Ambler, a Gold Rush-era dentist and real estate tycoon. His home - called "Rock Rest" (photo) - sat exactly where the Baldwin plant building is located today. Ambler died in 1888 and is buried in Lakeview Cemetery. In 1894, his wife Martha donated 25 acres to the city for Ambler Park.
___

Distance This Neighborhood: 29.8 miles

Distance So Far: 1,044.5 miles

Progress Map