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Buckeye-Shaker Square

 

Buckeye-Shaker Square (sometimes referred to as "Buckeye-Shaker") consists of the sub-neighborhoods of Upper Buckeye, Larchmere, Ludlow and Shaker Square. It originated as farmland and was settled by numerous immigrant groups, most notably Hungarians, who called the area "Little Hungary". Intensive development in the 1920s led by the Van Sweringen brothers - including the creation of transit-oriented housing and the Shaker Square shopping center - shaped the area's modern layout. Following a period of political power for the Hungarian community, migration to suburbs led to demographic shifts, including the arrival of many African American residents. This led to racial tensions. However, the Ludlow Community Association created as a response to anti-integration violence and advocated for an integrated community in the 1950s and 60s. In the 1970s, the community fought and won a campaign to prevent a freeway from tearing through the neighborhood. A very civically active community, several major efforts today involve plans to improve Shaker Square and the housing around it; the revitalization of several key properties on Buckeye Road; an major upcoming roadway project for Shaker Blvd; and continuining the momentum in Larchmere.

Launched in October 2020, Buckeye Road Refresh was a transportation planning project for "Upper Buckeye" Road (Woodhill Road to S. Moreland Blvd) funded by NOACA. As a result of the plan, over $500K of streetscape improvements were added to the standard roadway project (i.e. resurfacing, sidewalk/curb repair, etc). This included the sidewalk stamp above which added a bit of neighborhood branding.

The Rosalia Building (1600 Buckeye Road) was built in 1914 and is a contributing structure to the Buckeye Commercial Historic District.

The former St. Margaret's of Hungary church (2917 E. 116th Street). According to Hungarian Americans and their Communities in Cleveland: "By the 1920s, the increasing number of Hungarian Roman Catholics on upper Buckeye Road necessitated the construction of another Roman Catholic church. At a time when walking was the primary means of transportation, St. Elizabeth of Hungary (East 90th) was at a considerable distance for the parishioners living around upper Buckeye Road." A small wood church and gymnasium was first built in 1922. By 1930, the church above (and an adjacent elementary school) was built. The parish moved to Orange township in 1989 and the church was sold to Second New Hope which continues to use it today.

The Moreland Theater building (11820 Buckeye Road) opened on January 12, 1928. In addition to entertainment, it served as an important civic venue, particularly for the Hungarian community. It closed in 1962 and later operated as a live dinner theater and then as a night club before finally becoming a church for 30 years. In 2007, the former neighborhood development corporation purchased it. It's currently owned by the current neighborhood development corporation (Burten, Bell, Carr) and is at the center of a $18.7 million renovation plan for Buckeye Road. There's even talk about making it home to an R&B Hall of Fame.


This mural at E. 126th & Buckeye was completed by Kevin "Mr. Soul" Harp in 2023.

East 122nd Street was part of the neighborhood's former Model Block program which strategically focused home repair and other resources on streets where owner-occupancy was still strong but assistance was needed.

Newly constructed homes in the 2700 block of E. 118th Ave. They were constructed in 2023 by CHN Housing Partners as part of their 30-house Lechmere Homes initiative. The homes are lease-purchase meaning lower income applicants pay an affordable monthly rate with an option to buy after 15 years (less the payments made over the years). It's been one of the more successful paths to homeownership and equity building for lower income residents in Cleveland over the past several decades. Not surprisingly, the waiting lists for these homes are long.

Kossuth Park (Williams Ave & E. 121st) was established in 1954. It's named after Louis Kossuth who was a major Hungarian leader during the country's revolution in the 1840s. Kossuth famously made a visit to Cleveland in 1852 as part of his fundraising tour of U.S. cities aimed at raising money to achieve Hungarian independence from Austria. Beloved by the local Hungarian community, there's also a statue dedicated to him in Rockefeller Park. The initial proposed placement in Public Square was the source of some controversy at the time.

Kossuth Park received $350,000 in upgrades in 2024, which included a new playground with swings, concrete pavement, rubber soft surfaces, benches, and game tables. The project was funded through an $8.1 million citywide parks and recreation upgrade plan approved in 2023. 

This mural (in progress) on the side of the Huntington Bank branch (11623 Buckeye Road) was developed by LAND Studio with thematic input by the community. In 2023, Huntington threatened to close the branch permanently due to safety concerns but a strong neighborhood organizing campaign reversed their decision. Now, the Elevate the East project is adding this mural which is a symbol of the community's successful effort to keep the bank open. 100 years ago, the location was the site of the Regent Theater which closed in the 1950s.

According to county records, this double on E. 118th Street was built in 1916 and is one of the more uniquely designed buildings in the neighborhood.

This Maya Angelou mural is located on the side of the former Nikki's Music, at the intersection of East 117th Street and Buckeye Avenue in Cleveland. It was created by Cleveland artists Mr. Soul (Kevin Harp), SANO, and Dayz Whun as part of the 2019 Inner City Hues Project. The mural features a portrait of Maya Angelou surrounded by words representing community struggles and strengths, including a quote of her own: "If you don't like something, change it. If you can't change it, change your attitude." Nikki's Music was founded by renaissance man Sanders Henderson. Sanders was a DJ during his time at Cleveland State and opened up his original location on St. Clair Ave in 1985, then moving to the Buckeye location in 1987. The store was a well-known music shop for the rap/hip-hop community nationally, with many of the genre's biggest names having made appearances over the years (check out this short clip). Here's a nice profile by Sidewalks of Buckeye.

The Weizer Building (11801 Buckeye Road) is the largest building on Buckeye Road. It was built in 1927 for John Weizer - an 1860 German immigrant - who was a grocer and a garment maker before becoming a successful real estate broker. He reportedly sold more than 2,000 lots to Hungarian residents as the Buckeye population grew. The building was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2002 and fully redeveloped by the neighborhood development corporation in 2003. Today it is home to Providence House. Here's a nice profile on the building by Freshwater Cleveland. Fun fact: The architect was Henry Hradilek. Those familiar with the west side will know another one of his notable architectural achievements still standing - Don's Lighthouse Grill at the corner of Clifton Blvd & Lake Ave.


Livingston Park (3090 Livingston Road) is an 11-building, 195-unit mixed income housing complex built in 1945 (then called Moreland Greens). In 2002, the building was purchased by an affiliate of the Shaker Square Area Development Corp who completed a partial renovation. However, they defaulted on their mortgage and the property was sold to the City Cleveland who then sold it to a developer who invested $12 million.

These townhomes located next to Livingston Manor on E. 135th are newly constructed but were originally part of a 20-unit plan called Southington Manor which dates back to 2006. However, that project stalled and only a few were built. Fast forward nearly 15 years and here we are with these new units.

Lots of color at 13414 Lorenzo Ave.

Soika Ave is named after Frank Soika who owned the land on the street before it was developed. According to his October 6, 1948 obituary in the New York Times: "Frank Soika, former Councilman, Republican leader and real estate man, died last night at the age of 77. A former trustee and service director of Newburgh Village, he became active in this city's politics after Newburgh was annexed to Cleveland. He was elected to the City Council in 1916 and became the G.O.P. leader of the South Side. Mr. Soika laid out large residential areas and allotted acreage purchased by his parents when they came to this country from Bohemia."

This little nondescript building at 12910 Soika is home to the Little Africa Food Co-Op which operates 5-7pm every Monday between April and October. The market was founded in 2016 as a means to provide fresh and healthy food and a gathering space on the southeast side. The market also has a program where they grown their own food at Village Family Farms in the Hough neighborhood.

Little Africa owns this building across the street as well (3112 E. 130th). The building was built in 1910 according to county records. It once was where popular Cleveland condiment Savory Soul BBQ Sauce was produced before being acquired in the late 90s by Heritage Fare (also a local business). The sauce is still sold at local grocers (see below). The building served as a church for years before it was turned over to the food collaborative in 2023.

Stopped by Dave's Grocery Store after the run and, sure enough, they carry Savory Soul. Added it to my dinner that night.

Faith Temple Church of God In Christ (12517 Soika Road). The building was built in 1961 and has been home to the church since at least 1975.

This church at 12705 Soika Ave was built in 1927 for the San Giovanni (St. John) Baptist Church which was Italian. It conducted mass in both English and Italian and continued to operate until 1958 when it was then sold to a Black Baptist congregation. It has been home to House of God church for nearly the last 30 years. Here's a 1954 report from the church discussing the church's struggles as well as the economic, social and racial conditions of the neighborhood at that time.

The former Shomrei Hadath Synagogue at 12302 Parkhill Ave. The congregation was created by Hungarian Jews that were part of B'nai Jeshurun (which was located at E. 55th & Scovill) but living in Buckeye & Mt. Pleasant. The congregation formed in 1923 and this building was built in 1926 according to county records. The congregation merged with Young Israel in 1973 and sold the building to Second Missionary Baptist Church. Today it is home to Mt. Esther Missionary Baptist Church.

Garden Of Eleven Angles (12205 Imperial Ave) is a memorial site for 11 women killed by Cleveland serial killer Anthony Sowell. The location is the site of Sowell's home where the victims were found in 2009. The site was designed and developed by the Western Reserve Land Conservancy, Burton, Bell, Carr Development, LAND Studio and a host of other local organizations and was dedicated in 2021.

Ray's Sausage (3146 E. 123rd Street) was founded in 1952 by Raymond Cash along with a few other partners (one of which was famed Cleveland Indian Luke Easter). The business has grown steadily over time. Ray's products are sold throughout Northeast Ohio at Dave's, Heinens, Giant Eagle, and many independent grocery stores as far as Toledo and Columbus. And now that they are USDA certified, they are looking to expand. Today, the 70+ year old business is owned by Ray's daughter Renee and her daughter Leslie.

Across the street from Ray's is the Revolutionary Love Garden. It was founded by nearby resident Shirley Bell in 2013 as a part of the work of her non-profit, Elements of Internal Movement. At the garden, she infuses opportunities for youth to learn about horticulture covering STEM elements in a six-week program over the summer while also teaching mindfulness. She was featured in this 2021 NPR story on the importance of green infrastructure in neighborhoods like Mt. Pleasant.

This sweet-looking station wagon appeared to be abandoned after a major crash on E. 123rd. Wild.

Morelight Missionary Baptist Church (3075 E. 116th) was founded in 1990 but the house was built in 1915. Back then, it was the home of Moses Owen, a watchman (security guard). What did he watch over? No clue.

A solid row of Cleveland Doubles south of Buckeye Road.

This former corner store at E. 130th & Griffing was built in 1920. In the 1950s, it was a grocery store owned by Steven Hudak, an immigrant from Slovakia. It was last active in 2017.

Lost sole on E. 130th Street.

Eddie Baccus Sr. was widely regarded as the standard bearer of Cleveland jazz. Although he began losing his sight nearly since birth, Baccus would become the only professional musician among his ten siblings. When the family moved to Ohio in 1956, he attended The Ohio State School for the Blind. By 1959, he quit school to play piano and organ with Rahsaan Roland Kirk, the renowned sax great from Columbus. When he died in 2022, then 85-year-old keyboardist was the longest-playing musician in Cleveland.

Dailey's (3019 E. 116th Street) was a popular West Indian food mart but appears to have closed earlier this year.

The former Stevie's Delicatessen (3001 E. 116th Street). The ghost sign on the side of the building was recently exposed after the demolition of the building next door. It reads "Newman's Creamery l Groceries l Candies, Cigars, Cigarettes l Telling’s Ice Cream." The building was built in 1920 and Newman's might have been the first business. Telling's Ice Cream was a product of William E. Telling. Telling grew up on a farm in South Euclid and sold strawberries and milk door-to-door as a youth. He worked in a local sandstone quarry until age 23 when he then purchased a milk route. He and four brothers formed the Telling Brothers Ice Cream Company in 1895. A merger in 1915 formed the Telling Belle Vernon Dairy Company which was the first local distributor of pasteurized, glass bottled milk. He amassed a fortune and diversified his business interests to include ownership of a semi-pro baseball team; founding Lyndhurst Lumber Company; and Director of Standard Oil Trust Company. In 1928, he began construction on a 20,000 sqft, 26-room home on his family's old farmland where he lived in until his death in 1938. The home served as the South Euclid library branch from 1954 to 2013 and was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1974. Today it is the home of Museum of American Porcelain Art.

T&J Beverage (12914 Forest Ave) is the corner store serving the E. 120s & 130s. The building was built in 1920 according to county records.

The Possibilitarian Garden (2913 E. 117th Street) was founded in 2011 by horticulturist Diane Sette who created the garden to serve as learning lab for neighborhood residents. Today it has a new owner who teaches natural building practices. The garden was prominently featured in Justin Glanville's Streets of Buckeye series, Sidewalks of Buckeye.

Next to the Possibilitarian Garden is this duplex which has been home to the various owners of the garden as well as many guests.

Buckeye Community Park sits at the corner of Buckeye Road & E. 118th. It was built in 2008 and features the 16-foot-tall "Buckeye Trumpet Man" by artist James Simon. Other art pieces include decorative ceramic benches by Angelica Pozo, a mural by Cleveland artist Francisca Ugalde and photo murals by former Cleveland artist William Carter.The remainder of the park was designed by Jim McKnight (who also designed the Apple Tree parklet above). In the photo above, I caught members of the Parks & Greenspace Coalition holding their quarterly meeting at the park.

In 2022, LAND studio received funding from the Ohio Arts Council and Arts Midwest, and commissioned artist Mac Love for this mural on the corner of E. 120th & Buckeye Road titled ARISE/ASPIRE. Love worked with residents of all ages to create a mural that reflected the voice of the community. It is inspired by more than 2 years of collaborative work with residents and students in Buckeye-Shaker.

The Tavern Coffee House (12302 Buckeye Road) is a non-profit coffee shop and community hub supported by the The Meeting Place Church and ran by associate pastor Kenneth McQuiller. McQuiller - who is from New York - moved to Cleveland after graduating from college and opened the shop due to his love for Cleveland and the Buckeye neighborhood. The shop was once a tavern, hence the name. Folks associated with the church acquired the property from the County Land Bank in 2023 and turned it into the caffeinated community hub it is today.

The Moreland House (2804 S. Moreland Blvd) was built in 1930 and was a prominent structure in the Shaker Square Historic District throughout the decades. In the 2000s, it began to fall into into disrepair and was eventually almost demolished. Investor Rakafet Landes purchased the property at Sherriff's Sale in 2018 for the back taxes owed and invested $3 million with some help from the City, County, and historic tax credits. Today, it's a completely restored, 23-unit building featuring affordably priced studios and one and two-bedroom apartments (30% of the units are 50-60% AMI). An example of investment done right.


These series of apartment buildings in the 2900 bock of S. Moreland Blvd were also built in 1930 and have distinctive names such as "Balfour," "Herrick," "Ashwood," and "Malvern." They are all contributing members of the Shaker Square Historic District.

The former Shaker Square United Hungarian Baptist Church (2844 E. 130th). The church was built in 1925 and the congregation lasted until 1975 when it sold it to Holy Grove Missionary Baptist Church which still occupies it today.

The Make Your Mark mural at Shaker Square Towers (2815 E. 130th) was commissioned and launched as a youth engagement initiative with kids from Harvey Rice Elementary School and Hope Grove Missionary Baptist Church (photo above). The project started as a street organizing initiative on E. 130th which led to the mural project organized by artists Josiah Britt (founder of CollectiveExpress), Lauren Pearce, and Brandon Graves. Here's a great little documentary on the project.

The former First Hungarian Presbyterian Church (12604 Buckeye Road) was formed in 1914 after a split with First Hungarian Reformed Church (i.e. abandoned church campus at the northwest corner of Buckeye & MLK Drive). The first church was located at E. 103rd & Buckeye. This church was built in 1918. It was sold to Grace Fundamental Baptist Church in 1989 and is currently home to St. Ann's Deliverance Tabernacle.

The former Lucy's Sweet Surrender bake shop (12516 Buckeye Road). The bakery was founded in 1957 by Lucy Ortelecan who ran it until 1994 when she retired and sold it to Michael and Marika Feigenbaum. Michael - who grew up in Cleveland and remembered the heydays of Buckeye Road  - attended California Culinary Academy in San Francisco and returned in the mid-1990s to buy the bakery. It lasted until 2011 when a pair of armed robberies within a span of 18-months span forced a move to Shaker Heights. Michael and Marika lasted about 10 years in that location and decided to close upon retirement.


The Passport Project (12801 Buckeye Road) was a youth arts education company founded in 1998 by neighborhood native and resident Chloe Hopson. The company organized arts programs to youth living in the Buckeye, Larchmere, and Shaker Square neighborhoods with the intent to expose them to different cultures across the globe. By the looks of their social media, it looks like things wound down in 2018. Here's a 2015 Sidewalks of Buckeye post from a program they were working on at that time.

Just outside the front doors of Passport Project, this decorative crosswalk was being installed. 

This commercial building at 11917 Buckeye Road was built in 1915. It's currently home to Longhouse, a curated event space that promotes various forms of art and cultural expressions. It's also a deli.


According to the Cleveland City Directory of 1929, this building at 12405-07 Buckeye Road was home to a shoe store and a candy store at that time. According to county records, it was built in 1910. There's a single family home behind it that was built in 1900 (presumably work/live situation back then). The last active use appears to be a shoe repair store but it looks to have closed sometime between 2011-2014.

The Ruth Building (12001-11 Buckeye Road) was built in 1922. Over the years it saw stints as a shoe store, a wallpaper company, and a linoleum company. It's one of three buildings in the district that recently received $250K of historic tax credits for planned renovation thanks to this area of Buckeye Road being designated a historic district in 2024. The $1,564,219 project will feature first-floor commercial space and seven apartments above. Read more about the proposed improvements here.

The Parobek Building (E. 12417-19 Buckeye Rd.) was built in 1918. It's a classic example of the "Little Budapest" district building typology which features first-floor commercial and second-floor residential (families often lived above their businesses). 

Edwins Bakery & Training Center (13104 Buckeye Road) is a training center, diner, and patisserie in Cleveland that provides culinary and hospitality education to formerly incarcerated adults. It is part of the larger EDWINS Leadership & Restaurant Institute, which aims to help with the re-entry process for individuals by teaching them skilled trades. The bakery is part of a campus which includes a butcher shop and 39 units of housing for students. Edwins won the James Beard Foundation’s new Impact Award in 2025.

Bike Your Neighborhood is a monthly neighborhood ride between June and September. Founded in 2023 through a host of sponsors and led by the amazing Deidre McPherson, the group rides through the Buckeye-Shaker, Mt. Pleasant, Woodland Hills, Kinsman, and Union-Miles neighborhoods with a start and end in Shaker Square. I took this photo during the last ride of the 2025 season. Here's a great short film about the initiative.

Speaking of biking, here's some fresh new lanes laid down on Moreland Ave as part of a roadway improvement project completed in 2024.

E. 128th Street is another former Model Block Street. It's led by the E. 128th Block Club, one of the strongest such groups in the City. Here's a nice profile on their efforts by Fresh Water Cleveland. Point of Pride: According to the group, there are about 50 homes on the street with one-third of them being two-family dwellings and approximately 70% to 75% are owner-occupied. Even back in 2008 during the foreclosure crisis, homes on the street could fetch over $100K.

At the northern end of E. 128th is Amos Norwood Mini-Park. The park was dedicated in 2006 through a combination of philanthropic contributions, a donation of land from the Coral Company, and a $17K private donation from Amos Norwood, a successful and civic-minded neighborhood businessman known locally as "Buckeye's Black Godfather."

This memorial bench and rose garden at Amos Norwood Park is dedicated to Lawrence "Larry" Francis Manno. Manno grew up in the neighborhood, having been born at St. Luke's Hospital, and attended local schools and churches. For 40 years, he operated Manno's Landscaping at 12808 Buckeye Road. Larry designed the original landscaping for the Amos Norwood Mini-Park in 2005. He was tragically killed in 2019 during a robbery and assault by one of his employees. He was 74. The killer was 24 and sentenced to 15 years to life.

The park also features this six-foot-by-44-foot colorful mural that depicts 38 icons who have shaped the history of African Americans in Cleveland and around the world. It was created by artist Anna Arnold in 2021. Here's a good article about it.

Anna Arnold discusses her mural during a Bike Your Neighborhood ride in September. To her left is E. 128th Street Block Club president and Buckeye super-resident Bob Render. Bike Your Neighborhood organizer Deidre McPherson is to her right.

Ludlow is a 2,500-person, 600-home neighborhood which straddles Cleveland and Shaker Heights. It's named after the old Ludlow elmentary school built in 1926. The neighborhood is known for its efforts around racial integration. For the first half of the 20th century, Blacks were prohibited from purchasing homes in the neighborhood through deed restrictions and other measures. When the Supreme Court ruled these practices unconstitutional in 1948, affluent African American families began purchasing homes in the neighborhood. In 1956, this led to the bombing of the home of John G. Pegg, an African American lawyer who was building a new house on Corby Road. Instead of letting the incident tear the neighborhood apart, residents formed the Ludlow Community Association to begin the work of building racial harmony. The organization's efforts quickly received national recognition which has continued since 1957. This has included organizing countless meetings, forums, events, fundraisers and even benefits when unfortunate instances have occured. Its work has been so notable that it was memorialized with this Ohio Historial Marker in 2022.

The home of African American attorney John Pegg which was bombed in 1956 during construction. The incident led to the formation of the Ludlow Community Association.

Helen Simpson Park (13201 S. Woodland Road) was established in 1973. The park is named after Helen Simpson, a neighborhood resident and pioneer in Cleveland television who was tragically murdered in 1972 on her way home from work. The park has seen its ups and downs over the years. However, residents groups such as the Morelands Group have rallied in recent years to help beautify and program the park.

A sampling of single family homes in Ludlow. The neighborhood is also a historic district which is reviewed by the Cleveland Landmarks Commission.

Both the Drexmore Mansion (left) and the Ludlow Castle Apartments (right) were built between 1928-1930 and designed by Alfred W. Harris who also designed the Moreland Courts and the initial concept for Shaker Square (more on that later). In addition to architecture, Harris was also a painter and sculptor and served in the Air Force during WWI. He served as a charter member of the Cleveland Aviation Club (1919).

The Ludlow Gables were also design by Alfred Harris. They line the north side of S. Woodland Road (the historic name of the street before a large portion of it was renamed Buckeye).

This house on Drexmore Ave was the home of fomer Cleveland mayor Jane Campbell and her then-husband, former Cleveland Planning Director Hunter Morrison.

And here's the former home of Mayor Carl Stokes (13805 Larchmere Blvd). Stokes lived here during his time in office (1968-1971).


A pair of four-legged residents of Ludlow.

Shaker Square is the oldest planned shopping center in Ohio and the second oldest shopping center in the nation. Concepts for the site began in 1923 with the final design built between 1927-1929 in conjunction with the development of the adjacent Moreland Courts and the remainder of Shaker Heights. It was the junction of both the Shaker Rapid Green Road (now Green) and Van Aken (now Blue) rapid transit lines. Originally planned as a circle, it was changed to an octagon in order to accommodate the rise of automobile parking. In 1937, the Colony Theater was added (today it's Atlas Cinemas). In 1980, Shaker Square was designated a Historic District by the City of Cleveland. 

Shaker Square was home to many notable retail outlets and restaurants over the years until the 1970s when it began to struggle due to competition from suburban malls. In 1976, the Friends of Shaker Square (now Shaker Square Area Development Corporation) was formed to assist with preservation of the Square and the surrounding neighborhood. The Square fell into foreclosure in 2021 but was purchased by Cleveland Neighborhood Progress in partnership with Burton, Bell, Carr thanks to a $12 million loan from the City of Cleveland using American Rescue Plan Act (ARPA) funds. Over $5 million was invested into upgrades thereafter. In January 2025, a new vision plan for Shaker Square was revealed which calls for better use of the public space in the retail areas, market-rate housing, revamped rapid stations, safer crossings, and more programming among other things.

Speaking of programming, the North Union Farmer's Market is easily the most longstanding and popular. Founded by biologist Donia Anderson in July 1995, the market operates Saturday mornings in the heart of the Square. It also has grown to include other locations throughout the Cleveland area. You can read the full history here. (I did almost every one of my runs on Saturdays so I could hit the market afterwards). The market is also the organizer of the Cleveland Garlic Festival in Shaker Square, which began in 2010.

Shaker Square is home to stops for both the RTA Green and Blue Rapid Lines. The stop also includes the popular Michael's Diner (Fun Facts: 1. A stop has occupied this location since the 1920s, starting with a few wooden shelters all the way to the current upgrade in 2006. 2. While Michael's opened in 1996, a diner has occupied space at this stop since the 1950s). I took this shot of train ready to depart at sunset following a City Club of Cleveland forum in the Square titled "The Powerful Intersection of Murals and Community Transformation."

Speaking the the City Club, I was joined by City Club CEO Dan Moulthrop for my run through the Shaker Square Historic District. Dan is a longtime friend who also lives in nearby Shaker Heights. He provided some really cool insights on a number of locations throughout our run. It was really awesome to log some miles with him on this project. After, we hit the market and engaged in conversation of (in)consequence (a play on the City Club's mission statement in case you didn't get that one).

During our run, Dan mentioned that it was the opinion of a number of folks in the area that a major obstacle holding back the revitalization of Shaker Square was the vacant Van Aken Shopping Plaza (pictured above as Dan runs past). Well, someone must have heard him because...

...by the time I finished running the neighborhood, the entire plaza had been demolished (this photo is taken exactly where Dan is running above). It's part of a proposed 1.7 acre site for redevelopment. Back in the day, the site housed a Hough Bakery, Bonwit Teller, Franklin Simon, Clark’s restaurant, Heinen’s grocery, and Shaker Lanes bowling alley.

Moreland Courts (13500 Cormere Ave) is one of the premier residential addresses in all of Cleveland. Constructed through different phases between 1922 through 1929, they were conceived as part of the original development plan for Shaker Square. The sprawling development includes 12 buildings totaling 147 individual units ranging in size from 6 to 12 rooms. It features concierge services that rival those of premier New York City addresses. The buildings have been home to many of the region’s leaders in arts, culture, health care, and business over the decades.

Shaker Hall (12700 Shaker Blvd) is a 103-unit apartment building built in 1940 about a half block from Shaker Square and located within the historic district.

The Kappa House (12300-12450 Shaker Blvd) is a two-building, 100+ unit affordable senior and family housing complex. The first building was built in 1990 and the second (above) was built in 2011. It's owned by non-profit Kappa Alpha Psi, which is the second oldest historically Black Greek Letter Fraternity and the first intercollegiate Fraternity incorporated as a national body. The Cleveland chapter was established in 1920 and is committed to addressing issues such as poverty, homelessness, healthcare, and education in the area.

The Call & Post is an African American-centered newspaper founded in 1916 by Cleveland inventor Garrett Morgan. In 1929, it merged with the Cleveland Post to become the Call & Post Newspaper. Under the leadership of editor & publisher W.O. Walker in 1932, the Call & Post became a major voice for the African American community in metropolitan regions throughout Ohio. It's currently owned by infamous boxing promoter Don King who also purchased this building in the late 1990s. The building appears largely unoccupied although the paper is still in publication.

The retro-looking LaRone Apartments (12024 Shaker Blvd) is a 58-unit, low income apartment building built in 1970 and manged by CMHA. In French, la ronde means "the round." It's a guess but given the building's rounded balconies, this might be why it was given this name.

Preterm (12000 Shaker Blvd) is a nonprofit abortion clinic founded in 1974 by women seeking to provide reproductive healthcare and counseling following the legalization of abortion in Roe v. Wade. Throughout its history, Preterm has expanded services beyond abortion to include contraception, testing, and education, while also acting as a lead plaintiff in numerous legal challenges against anti-abortion legislation in Ohio. The organization has been involved in key legal battles, including the 2019 "heartbeat bill" lawsuit and the ongoing case against the state's abortion ban, and was the first independent abortion clinic to unionize in 2021. It was also part of the coalition behind Ohio's 2023 Right to Reproductive Freedom constitutional amendment which passed with 57% of the vote.

The former campus of the Shaker Medical Center Hosipital (11720 Shaker Blvd). Founded in 1955, it was a small, community-oriented hospital that served as a lower-cost alternative for patients who did not require the services available in larger hospitals. It was purchased by nearby St. Luke's Hospital in 1982 and then closed in 1984. The building in the foreground now serves as a daycare while the other remains vacant.

The Shaker West Professional Building (11811 Shaker Blvd) was built in the 1960s. It's owned by Amanda and Haim Mayan who purchaed it from the Shaker Square Development Corp in 2019 (although they still maintain their HQ there). The couple - who are originally from Miami - began purchasing properties in the area in the mid-2010s, fell in love with Cleveland, and began to move their entire family to the area.

The Greater Cleveland Delta Foundation Life Development Center (11950 Shaker Blvd) is a non-profit organization established in 1997 for the purpose of promoting educational, health, government, economics, social, and cultural programs for the community. Their signature programs have included food and back-to-school give-aways and hosting Stephanie Tubbs Jones Youth Leadership Academy.

This building at 12001 Shaker Blvd was built in 1959 and was once home to a National City Bank branch. It's been home to Perfect Peace Baptist Church for the last 20 years.

Our Lady of Peace Church was established in 1919 when property was purchased on Shaker Boulevard for a school and chapel. Both buildings were constructed in 923. Previously, mass was celebrated in a vacant pool hall or billiard room at the old Luna Park.

A shot of the school building, just behind the orginal church hall building facing Shaker Blvd.

In 1949, property between East 126th and East 127th streets was cleared and construction began on the current church, which was completed in 1951. All three buildings are contributing properties to the historic district.

Winpisinger Place (12025 Shaker Blvd) is a senior affordable housing complex built in the late 1960s. The building is named after Cleveland native William "Wimpy" Wayne Winpisinger who was the former international president of the the International Association of Machinists and Aerospace Workers (IAM) which represents over 600,000 workers in 200 various industries. He was a major union leader in the late 1970s and throughout the 1980s.

This massive apartment building at 12701 Shaker Blvd was built in 1949 and is part of the historic district. In 2023, the city sued the building owner after tenants repeatedly complained of maintenance issues such as lack of heat and working elevators. The advocacy was supported by the Morelands Group and local council members, who actually traveled to New York City. In 2025, the City's municipal court approved a controlled sale of the properties in hopes that a new owner would make the needed code violation repairs. Over $5 million has been pledged by the new owner for that work, a huge win for the community. Photo credit for this one goes to Nick Castele of Signal Cleveland.

The Shaker House & Shaker Town House Apartments (12805-12931 Shaker Blvd) were built in 1941 and are located right next to the Square.

This series of apartment buildings just north of Shaker Square along N. Moreland Blvd are some of the oldest in the historic district. Most were built in the 1920s and pre-date the development of the Square itself (here's a photo from 1926).

Larchmere is a 10-block district which starts at East 120th Street and extends east to North Moreland – one block north of Shaker Square. According to the Encyclopedia of Cleveland History, in 1911, Cleveland annexed most of today's Larchmere neighborhood from newly formed Shaker Heights. Shaker Heights had a policy of renaming all streets that passed through its border, and thus named the stretches of Woodland Avenue within its limits "Larchmere Boulevard." With origins as an Italian-Hungarian neighborhood, population waned during the mid-20th century due to subrban sprawl. In the 1970s and 80s, residents fought and successfully prevented the state and county from building a freaking highway through the neighborhood. Today, the commercial and residential district is known for its dozens of eclectic storefronts and annual festivals, including PorchFest and Holiday Stroll. It's one of the most desired places to live in all of Cleveland. Here's a good write-up by Rust Belt Mag.

The Academy Tavern (12800 Larchmere Blvd) is a historic Cleveland tavern established in 1939. It has an unpretentious, old-school charm with original features like a mirrored wood bar and tin ceiling and some great bar food. Inside, you'll find a spectrum of patrons - professionals, academics, blue-collar types, and neighborhood regulars. It's said that it's a place where mafia legend Danny Green and law enforcement great Eliot Ness used to hang out. On Wednesdays during the summer, you can still enjoy the sounds of jazz pianist George Foley and his crew.

The "Academy Burger" is a signature menu item. This was a post-run reward after finishing Larchmere. Did not disappoint.

The district has several murals including this new one by artist Thao Nguyen. It's part of Destination Cleveland's "Murals Across The City" program.

Batuqui (12624 Larchmere Blvd) is a Brasilian restaurant established in 2015 by chefs Carla Batista and Gustavo Nogueira (both from Brazil). The restaurant started a few blocks away but moved into this location - the home of St. Paul's Evangelical Church (1922) - this past summer. Here's a good overview by food critic Doug Trattner.

Next to Batuqui is the Larchmere Center for Well-Being (12620 Larchmere Blvd). The Center provides professional help for anxiety, depression, trauma-related issues, and other mental health concerns. For many years, the building (built in 1910) was home to Fine Points, a specialty shop that focused on unique yarns, knitting supplies, clothing, and jewelry. However, they are now split space in the building where Big Al's Diner is located.

The Dehilha Lofts (formerly known as Mikros on Larchmere) are comprised of 29 small, furnished micro-apartments with all-inclusive rents (utilities, wireless internet access, parking, car/e-bike sharing). Some units are as small as 467 square feet. The units feature rotating partition walls; a Murphy bed; drop-down desks; and plenty of storage space (more on the concept here). The building was developed in 2021 and sold for $5.1 million the following year, twice what it cost to construct them. The developer intends to invest that money in another 8-unit micro-apartment project.

121 Larchmere is a $20 million, 88-unit, market-rate apartment building built in 2021. The design firm City Architecture occupies the ground floor space. The building was fully leased within six months of opening, demonstrating the strong housing demand in the district.

Big Al's Diner (12600 Larchmere Blvd) is one of the most popular diners in Cleveland. The diner opened in 1994 and is named after longtime cook Al Windsor. Before that, it was Chuck's Diner. Celebrities of various stripes have been known to eat here and - if it's the weekend - there's usually a line out the door to get in. The diner was even featured on the Food Network’s "Best Thing I Ever Ate." Here's a good write-up once again by Doug Trattner.

One of my post-run meals was this omlette from Big Al's.

HoneyBirch Bakehouse (12204 Larchmere Blvd) is owned by Elan and Renee Hoenig who both worked in the service industry and wanted to open their own shop. HoneyBirch sells freshly made (starting at 4am) pastries, sandwiches, and bread plus small grocer’s pantry offerings like locally sourced dairy, eggs, chocolates, and conservas.

Fiddlehead Gallery (12736 Larchmere Blvd) was established in 2012. Per Cool Cleveland: "If you’re looking for an unusual gift that unlikely to be duplicated, stop in the Fiddlehead Gallery on Larchmere. Its specialty is unusual handmade art and crafts items, both decorative and functional, created by local, national and even international independent makers. You’ll also find rock & fossil specimens from around the world, enhancing the space’s nature-based aura. They also offer private crafting classes so you can be inspired to be your own maker."

Conservation Studios (12702 Larchmere Blvd) was a store that restored and conserved fine and period furniture. It was owned by Heide Rivchun and operated by herself and longtime colleague Asish Stephens. Heide studied furniture conservation at the London College of Furniture and interned at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. In addition to her store, she also owned a beloved vegetarian restaurant next door at one point. She retired and closed the store at the end of August (I was able to still get a photo of store still relatively occupied). Here's a nice post about her by Cleveland Public Library's John Skrtic.

The Shakerlan Building (12635 Larchmere Blvd) was built in 1930 (with additions added in 1945 and 1960). In recent years, it underwent an extentive adaptive reuse and now features 14 apartments and groundfloor commerical which is anchored by the popular Unbar Cafe

This mural at 12201 Larchmere Blvd was designed by Ted Kurtz and created by Building Bridges Art Collaborative in 2010. The design features a zig zag structure of space, showing  historic sites along the Larchmere neighborhood. The top and bottom of the mural features black and white drawings of the surrounding residential neighborhood as it appeared years ago.

Larchmere Blvd underwent a then-$13 million streetscape improvement back in 2014 which included pedestrian safety enhancements such as a these "floating" curb extension crosswalks. At the time, the City didn't have a policy for raised crosswalks but that would be a great complimentary project today.

The Fairwood Court Apartments (historically known as East Blvd Apartment) - located at 2961 E. 116th Street and right across from the Rice branch library - were built in 1927. It's actually listed as a Cleveland Landmark. I couldn't find much information about the current status of the building but it was definitely abandoned and vandalized. It's owned by Green Apple Construction LLC who appears to be from Baltimore.

The white split rail at this 1920 home on the corner of E. 116 & Hamlen Ave gives a homey touch to this part of the busy corridor. It appears the family who owns the home has lived there for over 45 years.

Found this casulty in the driveway of a home in rough shape on Buckingham Ave. Guessing it might have been in a garage that collapsed.

Sunbeam School (11800 Mt. Overlook Ave) was built in 2016 and provides educational opportunity for children with significant medical, orthopedic, and developmental needs as well as students without those needs. The original Sunbeam school was built in 1921 and was located just north of this location (demolished in 2013). It's named after the "Sunbeam Circle," a group of forward-thinking local women who, beginning in 1890, wanted to aid pediatric patients at Lakeside Hospital. They did this by sewing items for sale to benefit children at Lakeside Hospital. Between 1900 and 1910 this effort expanded and evolved into the Sunbeam School for Crippled Children. The current site was once home to Anthony Wayne (later named Jesse Owens) and Alexander Bell Elementary Schools which were demolished in 2016 to make way for the new Sunbeam campus.

Founded in 1908, Benjamin Rose (11890 Fairhill Road) nonprofit organization that supports aging adults and their caregivers through services such as housing services, financial wellness, and health and wellness. Benjamin Rose was a Cleveland businessman born in England. He made his fortune as the largest meatpacker in Cleveland. Upon death, he left his fortune to create the Benjamin Rose Institute which was the first foundation established in the U.S. to deal primarily with the needs of older Americans. 

My partner (Christine) and I head up the multi-use path on Fairhill Ave. The path is part of the Lake-to-Lakes Trail which connects Lake Erie to the Shaker Lakes.

The Fairhill campus is a historic site in Cleveland that has evolved from a U.S. Marine Hospital (1930-1953) to a psychiatric hospital (1956-1983) and is now a thriving multi-tenant campus for non-profit organizations, managed by Fairhill Partners which was formed in 1987. Today, the campus is home to over 30 organizations. In 1995, the site was designated a Cleveland Historic Landmark District. The land was originally cleared by Otto I. Leisy, president of Cleveland’s Leisy Brewing Company, who built a grand three-story brick mansion on the site in 1905, complete with a two-story wood-frame stable. These historic stables remain in use today and are available for community rentals.

Fairhill Village is a historic, planned community on Fairhill Road known for its English Cotswold-style, Tudor Revival architecture, and setting along the Shaker Lakes Park ravine. Designed to blend urban convenience with rural charm, the development includes thirteen homes (five semi-detached and three single-family dwellings) and is sometimes nicknamed "Belgian Village" due to its quaint appearance. It's noted for its landscape archtecture, which was designed by A. Donald Gray who worked for the renowned Olmsted Brothers firm. The village was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1990. Notable residents have included Russell and Rowena Jelliffe, founders of Karamu House and retired movie star May Alison

A row of beautiful Fairhill Road Village homes.

Enjoying my final run of Buckeye-Shaker.

Distance This Neighborhood: 30.5 miles

Distance So Far: 1,075.00 miles